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The Bowline Knot

Submitted by An Outdoor Idiots Team Member.



Page 1 of 4    Next    [Index]

We would like to thank reader Mikko Korhonen from Finland for their comments about this article. As a result, we have removed a page describing an alternative method for tying the Bowline knot.

This alternative method was originally included as we felt it provided a more reliable way of correctly tying a Bowline under all circumstances. As it happens, it was really no more idiot-proof than any other method, and could result in a Bowline oriented and loaded in an unusual way. This unusual Bowline does seem to hold well, however, on balance, we feel it is much safer to stick to the "known quantity" of a Bowline oriented in the usual way.

We have also added labels to some pictures, in the hope it might make them more clear.

Introduction

The Bowline knot is a very popular knot. If you enjoy a hobby which uses ropes (yachting, climbing and caving immediately come to mind) then it is almost certain you will be aware of the knot. In fact, if you know any knots at all, there is a good chance that the Bowline is one of them. Not only is it a popular knot, but people will also entrust their lives to it. My own introduction to the knot was as a means to attach a rope to a climbing harness, and as a means to tie the rope around pillars if need be.

But have you noticed that just about every source that describes how to tie the Bowline, will, in a very brief sentence at the end, mention that there may be certain "issues" with it?

If you search the Internet for "Bowline Knot", or look through any books you have that describe how to tie it, you won't get far before you start hearing these little negative comments. Comments like "can slip," "not suitable for heavy loads," "doesn't perform well when subjected to a three-way load," "you must always tie a stopper knot in addition," or "easy to mis-tie."

So, if there are all these problems with the Bowline knot, then how come it is still a knot which people use to tie in to a climbing harness, for example? Why trust your life to a knot with "issues"?

This actually seems like quite a controversial issue. Not in the sense that there are regularly heated debates about whether the Bowline is suitable for certain tasks. But in the sense that opinions seem to vary strongly. For example, a great many climbing books, and climbers' resources on the Internet, still suggest the Bowline knot as a means to attach a rope to a harness. By contrast, I have never been to an indoor climbing wall which allows this use of a Bowline. Rather, they have all insisted on using a figure of eight instead.

I suspect that opinions vary so widely for two reasons:
  • Firstly, the Bowline probably built up its reputation as a reliable knot when it was used aboard a boat. That seems fair enough. It is quick to tie, and can be undone easily after a heavy loading, and will likely hold very well provided it is being used to tie a fixed line to a static object like a cleat or pole. However, that does not mean its beneficial properties translate well to hobbies like climbing. The knot can be subjected to all sorts of forces as the climber twists and turns, or the knot catches against the rock, or the climber squeezes through an awkward gap or chimney. Also, if a climber falls, it can be shock-loaded in a way which is unlikely to occur when using the knot aboard a boat. The two applications are very different, and I suspect that the applicability of the Bowline has not been fully addressed as its use has spread from one application to another.
  • As already mentioned, the vast majority of information about the Bowline knot describes why it is a good knot, and how to tie it. Then there is a very brief hint that it might have problems. This seems to give the message that the problems are in fact minor, and only worth mentioning in passing.

It is the second point above that I want to tackle with this article. I want to do things the other way around. Rather than focus on recommending the knot and describing how to tie it (and then hinting at problems), I want to focus on the many negative aspects of the knot (and then hinting that it might still be okay to use it, provided you take all the necessary precautions).

So, here goes...









Page 1 of 4    Next    [Top of Page]

Page 1: Introduction

Page 2: Tying the Bowline Knot

Page 3: Failures of the Bowline Knot

Page 4: Appendix: Animal Testing











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