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Prusiks

Submitted by An Outdoor Idiots Team Member.

Page 1 of 10 Next [Index]

Prusiks: An Introduction

Prusiks are generally regarded as types of knots. However, they defy some of the conventional ideas and imagery about what constitutes a "knot". In literature I found this description of Prusiks, which is better than I could come up with, though still not entirely accurate: "Prusik knots use the principle of winding a thinner rope around a thicker one so that, when loaded, they will grip."

Perhaps it is best to start with a picture, and even better still if you can get hold of some cordage or rope in order to tie a Prusik right now, so that you can get a feel for just how special these knots are.

To tie most types of Prusik, you first need a loop of cord, such as that in Fig. 1. Any secure knot can be used to tie the loop - in this case, a Double-Fisherman's has been used.

A Prusik Loop

Fig. 1. A Prusik Loop.
This loop of cord can then be wrapped around a thicker cord, or a rope, in such a way that it will grip when it is loaded. The original Prusik knot is tied as follows:

Tying a Prusik (1)

Fig. 2. Place one end of the loop over the rope.

Tying a Prusik (2)

Fig. 3. Wrap the other end of the loop around rope and back through the first end.

Tying a Prusik (3)

Fig. 4. Do the same again, to create one more turn.

Tying a Prusik (4)

Fig. 5. Finally, pull tight and make neat.
That simple procedure has created a remarkable knot of enormous value. Here's why:

If you pull down on the Prusik loop (not the knot itself, but the remainder of the loop that is dangling down), the knot will grip the rope solidly, as in Fig. 6:

Using a Prusik (1)

Fig. 6. Prusik gripping a rope.
In fact, the more you pull, the tighter it will grip. To give an idea of how reliable the grip is: This type of knot is used commonly by climbers, and they happily put their entire body weight on it - the safe weight limit is defined by the strength of the cord, not how well the knot grips. For example, a climber could clip their harness into the karabiner shown in Fig. 7, and place all their weight on it:

Using a Prusik (2)

Fig. 7. A common use of a Prusik by climbers.
That alone is enough to make the Prusik knot a marvel amongst knots. But what makes it even better is this:

When there is no weight on the knot, it can be easily moved up or down the rope, by pushing (specifically pushing, not pulling) it, as in Fig. 8:

Using a Prusik (3)

Fig. 8. A Prusik knot being pushed down a rope.

If you have no previous experience of using Prusiks, hopefully that is enough to get you interested. If you are already familiar with Prusiks, then hopefully you will still find something interesting or useful in the remainder of this article.

Page 1 of 10 Next [Top of Page]

Page 1: Introduction to Prusiks, and the Original Prusik knot

Page 2: History of the Prusik Knot, and Understanding Prusik Knots

Page 3: The French Prusik

Page 4: The Bachmann Prusik

Page 5: The Kreuzklem Prusik and the Kleimheist Prusik

Page 6: The Penberthy Prusik

Page 7: Example Use (1) - An Adjustable Loop made with the Penberthy Prusik

Page 8: Example Use (2) - A Line Tensioner made with two Original Prusiks on the Same Cord

Page 9: Example Use (3) - Tying a Prusik to a Rigid Pole

Page 10: Getting the most from Prusiks, and Prusik Safety

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