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Prusiks
Submitted by An Outdoor Idiots Team Member.
The Penberthy Prusik
This is a very special Prusik for two reasons:First, it doesn't use a typical Prusik loop - rather, it uses a length of cord with a small loop tied in the end.
Secondly, it breaks the normal rule of thumb for Prusiks, which is that the Prusik cord must be thinner than the cord or rope around which it is tied. This is not true with the Penberthy Prusik. The Prusik cord and the main cord can be the same thickness, and, in many cases, the Prusik cord can actually be quite a bit thicker than the main cord. Note that this is all very "rule-of-thumb," however. Some of the Prusiks already covered do not, in fact, need to be tied around a thicker rope - it all depends on the exact materials involved. However, hands-down, the Penberthy Prusik is the one that seems to work in almost all cases when you need to break the "tying a thin cord round a thicker cord" rule for Prusiks.
Tying a Penberthy Prusik
Start by tying a knot in the end of some cord, in order to form a loop. It is important that this is not a slipknot, so that any cord that is fed through the loop can slide through it easily when in operation. Here's the Prusik loop that was used earlier, except it's now been untied and is no longer a loop, but instead has a knot tied in the end (Fig. 25). To keep climbers happy, this one is tied with a Figure of Eight knot and finished with an overhand knot as a stopper knot. Any reasonably secure knot will do for most applications.
Start by placing the loop at the bottom, then wind a few turns up the rope, as in Fig. 26. Whether you wind upwards or downwards does not seem especially critical with this knot (as compared with the Kreuzklem, in particular), but it is always worth experimenting with your particular materials.
Feed the end of the cord back down through the loop, as in Fig. 27:
As with all Prusiks, pull tight so that it all holds together, as in Fig. 28.
The load should be applied to the end of the cord, so to make this useful, you will probably need to tie another loop in the end, as in Fig. 29:
That is the last specific Prusik that will be covered. Now, moving on to some examples of uses for Prusiks...
Page 6 of 10 Previous Next [Top of Page]
Page 1: Introduction to Prusiks, and the Original Prusik knot
Page 2: History of the Prusik Knot, and Understanding Prusik Knots
Page 3: The French Prusik
Page 4: The Bachmann Prusik
Page 5: The Kreuzklem Prusik and the Kleimheist Prusik
Page 6: The Penberthy Prusik
Page 7: Example Use (1) - An Adjustable Loop made with the Penberthy Prusik
Page 8: Example Use (2) - A Line Tensioner made with two Original Prusiks on the Same Cord
Page 9: Example Use (3) - Tying a Prusik to a Rigid Pole
Page 10: Getting the most from Prusiks, and Prusik Safety
Page 2: History of the Prusik Knot, and Understanding Prusik Knots
Page 3: The French Prusik
Page 4: The Bachmann Prusik
Page 5: The Kreuzklem Prusik and the Kleimheist Prusik
Page 6: The Penberthy Prusik
Page 7: Example Use (1) - An Adjustable Loop made with the Penberthy Prusik
Page 8: Example Use (2) - A Line Tensioner made with two Original Prusiks on the Same Cord
Page 9: Example Use (3) - Tying a Prusik to a Rigid Pole
Page 10: Getting the most from Prusiks, and Prusik Safety
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